The Tongariro Crossing is a 20km alpine walk with a total elevation gain of approximately 800m. The trail offers little shade, leaving hikers fully exposed to the elements. On the day of our hike, the weather was exceptionally bright and sunny, with temperatures reaching 28 degrees Celsius at the car park, only slightly decreasing at higher elevations. Although there was a slight breeze, it provided little relief. 

The initial stretch of the walk from the car park (altitude 1120m) to Soda Springs (altitude 1400m) is relatively easy, featuring well-built boardwalks, stairs, and even restroom facilities. Along this part of the walk, hikers can admire the snow-covered Mount Ruapehu, but the highlight is undoubtedly the towering Mount Ngauruhoe, whose perfectly smooth volcanic cone famously served as Mount Doom in The Lord of the Rings movie trilogy. After approximately 4km, the trail begins to ascend faster, with the first steep climb adding 250m of elevation and leading to South Crater (altitude 1659m). Here, hikers will find restroom facilities and flat rocks perfect for resting.

The most captivating section of the hike commences from this point. South Crater resembles a dusty, moon-like plateau, approximately 1km in diameter, with Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe towering around. Crossing the plateau offers a tranquil and breathtaking experience, providing hikers with an opportunity to catch their breath before the next short climb – a 50m ascent to a ridge. From the ridge, one can enjoy panoramic views of the eastern slope, where State Highway 1 reaches its highest point on its journey to Wellington. Additionally, the Kaimanawa mountains, with their 1600m peaks, are visible in the distance. This ridge serves as the perfect platform for a selfie with Mount Ngauruhoe.

The next stretch is the most demanding, involving a steep ascent on dry scree, which poses a challenge for already tired hikers. However, the effort is rewarded upon reaching the track's summit (altitude 1868m), where hikers are greeted by the most spectacular attractions. Firstly, the red crater, with its truly red slopes, offers a striking contrast against the surrounding landscape. Additionally, hikers are treated to a 360-degree panorama, including sights such as Lake Taupo, Mount Tauhara, an aerial view of the Central Crater, and the Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake. At this highest point of the trail, energetic park rangers have assembled an artistic cairn of stones – an ideal spot for another selfie and contemplation of Taupo's supervolcano eruptions, which have historically altered the global climate.

We reached this point in three hours, but regrettably, we had to turn back. Although we technically reached the highest point and covered a fair distance of the trail, we realized that booking a shuttle from the Ketetahi parking site back to the Mangatepopo car park would have allowed us to continue our journey and descend the other side of the crossing, affording us a closer view of the crater lakes. The trail is aptly named "crossing" for this reason, and unfortunately, we did not complete the crossing on this occasion. Nonetheless, we found the ascent from the Mangatepopo car park to offer the most spectacular views, while the descent to the same car park provided further opportunities for exploration, including a distant view of Mount Taranaki and additional vistas of the magnificent Mount Ngauruhoe.

During our hike, we failed to notice any trail markings on Mount Ngauruhoe itself and later learned that climbing was not recommended due to cultural concerns of Maori tribes. While climbing is not explicitly prohibited, we did not see any other hikers on that route. It remains unclear whether climbing will be fully restricted in the future, or if it will continue to be discouraged, allowing for potential ascents in subsequent visits.

Our roundtrip took approximately six hours, and we returned around 4 p.m. Despite the Mangatepopo car park's four-hour limit, our car remained ticket-free. The hike proved to be an extraordinary experience, characterized by hot weather, zero wind, and relentless sunshine. Fortunately, we avoided sunburns by wearing long-sleeved shirts, full-length pants, and protective hats. The challenges we encountered: our water supply depleted sooner than anticipated, and I had to leave my camera in the car to reduce weight (the above photo is taken on my phone). We both wore Merrell Moab Flight shoes and used trekking poles, which helped the ascent and protected our joints on the descent. Four hours later, we arrived back in Auckland, reflecting on the unforgettable journey we had just completed.